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Cửu (2024)

by Nguyễn Khôi, Nguyễn Việt Trinh

Silk áo dài, silkworm cocoons, wood, electrical outlet, p5.js


The title literally means ‘nine’ in Sino-Vietnamese.

The work consists of the artist’s silk wedding dress, on which a moving image is projected based on the female population data in Vietnam on the website danso.org using p5.js, the dress has a thread connected to a braid, the braid grows from an electrical outlet, under the electrical outlet there are 9 silkworm cocoons.


The work wants to explore the neglected history of female labor. Robin Carufel has emphasized the important role of women in the development of the textile industry leading to technological development, which is an important part of the history of human civilization. She argues that the contribution of women in this industry is often undervalued or not fully recognized in traditional history (Carufel 2022). Much of the importance of textiles comes from technological advances. For example, in China and Japan, silk farmers have found new ways to produce more silkworms and help these silkworms produce more silk. To produce more silk, better machinery was needed. In the fourth or fifth century BC, China saw the invention of the silk reeling machine, mechanizing the first two stages of spinning. Two millennia later, Italy made great strides in using water-powered mills to produce silk. Advances in textiles also spilled over into other industries. Efforts to prevent diseases that killed silkworms led to Pasteur's germ theory of disease and vaccines against anthrax and rabies. Knowledge of the patterns needed for weaving laid the foundation for arithmetic and the first schools to teach mathematics. Textiles also provided the basis for computers. Textiles also spurred the creation of "social technology." Accounting, contract law, and activities that facilitated exchange all originated in the textile market. We could also add letter writing, the postal service, the division of labor, and even the New York Stock Exchange to this list. This new perspective often corrects pre-existing biases. (Dalton 2022)

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